One of the best things about staying at the Hotel Monaco in Old Town, Alexandria Virginia, is its convenient proximity to the Metro, especially if you are planning to spend a day in downtown Washington DC. We caught a taxi from the hotel and headed the one mile up King Street to the “King Street Metro Station”. If you have the time and energy, you can actually walk to the station, but we obviously had neither. We bought two round trip tickets to the metro stop called “The Archives” which lets you off near the National Archives, and a short walk to the National Gallery of Art, which was our goal for this short foray into DC. Our plan was to soak up the beauty of the some of the best master paintings and sculpture in the U.S.

The metro train ride was almost as interesting as the visit to the gallery as the train winds its way from Alexandria, past intriguing stops like the Pentagon and into the city. It’s a fun and convenient way to travel into D.C. and you don’t have to worry about paying for parking or having a few beers at the amazing variety of restaurants and bars downtown, the metro is extensive and easily maneuvered with signs and directions clearly posted so you can get to all the D.C attractions without difficulty.

Whenever I emerge from the depths of the metro into the city scape of D.C, it never ceases to evoke a sense of awe and pride in the beautiful monuments and buildings that grace the view in front of me. I love to look down the wide boulevards that lead to the Mall where the Washington Monument and the Capital Building Dome rise up into the sky creating impressive vistas. The buildings in D.C. are a collection of Neo-Classical, Gothic, Georgian, Second Empire and Modern architecture and somehow, these diverse styles all coalesce into a stunning harmony.

Another favorite walk of mine is through the National Gallery Sculpture Garden, where you can see amazing works of art like Louise Bourgeois’ “Spider” c. 1997, pausing mid crawl on its long metal legs, or Alexander Calder’s abstract “Cheval Rouge (Red Horse) c.1974, and Roxy Paine’s whimsical silver tree called “Graft” c.2009, among many other fantastic works by 20th and 21st century sculptors. During the winter, the fountain pool area is turned into an ice skating rink.

A walk through this park was the perfect appetizer before entering the masters laden halls of the National Gallery of Art, where you move from the lighthearted modern park art to the serious old masterpieces from past ages. The art in the National Gallery is the best of our human experience and you can wander for hours enjoying the color, technique and history of these beautiful artworks.

After a heady couple hours in the galleries, Jim and I were in need of a cold refreshing beer and a bite to eat, so we headed over to the Elephant and Castle, a warm, welcoming pub where we ordered Boddington Cream Ales, fish and chips for Jim and onion soup for me, the ideal lunch for a cold blustery day and fortification for more walking in D.C. as we explored the old Post Office and stopped at curb-side kiosks in search of the perfect T-shirt. Construction on the Old Post Office was begun in 1892 and finished in 1899. It was the last major example of Richardsonian Romanesque architecture to be built in the District of Columbia and its worth stopping by to admire the beautiful architecture and visit the souvenir shops inside its cavernous interior.
Finally worn our by the chilly weather and lots of walking, we wandered back to the metro and hopped the train back to Alexandria for an evening exploring their several Irish Pubs.

What was I thinking!   Hot Hot Hot.  The best of intentions and not so terrific execution on my last day in Georgetown.

Note to self……. Always carry the number for a taxi service in your wallet.  This is a basic Travel 101 rule and I forgot to follow it.

It was a beautiful morning, bright and sunny, with a little breeze and I ignored the hint of humidity that was creeping subtly into the temperature.  I had the hotel call for a taxi and headed off to visit Dumbarton Oaks and the Oak Hill Cemetary.  I know that sounds weird, but the day before, I had seen glimpses of the elegant tomb sculptures on  the way to the cathedral and had vowed to come back to explore, I asked the taxi driver to drop me off just down the street from the cemetary at Dumbarton Oaks.

Dumbarton Oaks is a house museum which houses what I understand is a wonderful Pre-columbian and Byzantine collection and wonderful gardens.  I never got to see either one on this trip. Travel 101 rule 2.  Check the opening and closing hours.  This simple forgetful omission left me peering through the locked gates in dismay.   Marking that museum off the day’s list (it was only 11 am! I wasn’t going to hang around until 2:00 pm when it opened) I walked the few blocks to the cemetery.

The old cemetery which was opened in 1849 was peaceful and the only sounds were the rustle of the trees and buzz of a bee or two.  The green landscape was laid out in terraces as the grounds dipped down and up the rolling hillside. I noticed a runner taking a break on one of the far off decorative benches and a woman replacing flowers and cleaning off a headstone.  It looked from the basket she had with her that she might be having a nice long visit and maybe lunch with her loved one.  Other than that, I was the only person wandering through the beautiful works of funerary art.

Tall obelisks, weeping angels, draped urns, giant Celtic crosses.  I kept thinking that it must be a pleasure to rest among these graceful sculptures.  As I stepped over to one of the stone stairways that connected the terraces, I did a double-take. The stone steps were each inscribed with a name and date and I realized that I was walking on grave monuments.  The stone was polished granite, smooth as glass and I felt a little guilty as walked down the steps to the next level, as if I was desecrating a burial place.  I spied what looked like a Greek temple and headed over to see what family was buried there.  It was the Eustis crypt and in the center of the temple floor was what looked like a stone plug with an iron ring handle.  I could just imagine the family pulling out the stone over the decades and adding another family member to the crypt below every so often.

The most interesting part of the cemetery was where the mausoleums had been dug deep into the hillside at the far edge of the cemetery.  The winding path led me to the grassy roofs of the crypts and I was determined to find a way down to explore their entrances.  The mausoleum's facades were of every style and shape.  Some had rough stone fronts, some were elegant and classical and at least one had a huge circular entrance like a giant open mouth waiting to engulf whoever would next be interred. 

Wandering back toward the entrance, my curiosity satisfied, I stopped to take in a small brick chapel with pointed arch windows, tall gabled roof and a rose window. The chapel was built in the Gothic style by James Renwick and is a beautiful example of the 19th century Romantic Movement.  In fact, the majority of the cemetery reflects the aesthetic taste of that era.

Later, doing some research on the internet, I learned that the cemetery was founded by philanthropist banker Mr. W.W. Corcoran (i.e. Corcoran Gallery) and that there are many notable people such as William Lincoln, President Lincoln’s son buried there, but that was not the reason I was wandering through the graves that day.  I was there purely to experience the artistic beauty that can be found in these historic burial grounds.  I’ll leave searching for long-dead famous people to someone else.

Lacking a taxi phone number, I decided to walk back to Georgetown.  Really Stupid Idea!   It was so hot that I began to feel light-headed after only a few blocks.   Fortunately, I was  walking right by Tudor Place.  I walked into their museum shop and immediately admitted that I had been there a couple days before, but was in desperate need of a taxi.  The staff at the Tudor House are on my list of the best people on the planet!  Especially the senior visitor services manager.  I stood in front of the tiny portable air conditioning unit trying to keep from passing out and recovering from the heat while they called for a taxi. 

When the taxi arrived, I gave the driver directions to let me off at Georgetown University.  It is definitely a beautiful university.  Georgetown is the oldest Catholic and Jesuit University in the United States and was founded the same year as the birth of our nation 1789.  The university has seen the most important  school’s official colors.  While I wandered, I noticed many families with their college age kids along for what I was sure was trip to scope out the university.

I don't know what I was thinking.  After snapping a few shots, temporary amnesia (probably from the heat) forced me to make the mistake of walking back to Georgetown.  Big Mistake!  It was the most miserable walk I have taken in a long long time.  There is nothing interesting enough to put yourself through that hell.   The saving grace was a stop to cool down and rehabilitate my electrolytes at the Thunder Burger and Bar.  As soon as I reached M street, I focused on making it there.  With huge thanks I sat down at the bar and ordered ice cold water and a corona beer.  Seriously, it took at least 15 minutes of fanning myself in the cool interior for me to stop my blood from boiling.  I realized I was seriously overheated, so PLEASE, PLEASE, be careful about your exposure during the summer in DC!

I finally cooled down and headed back to our hotel and the icy air-conditioning of our room.

Our farewell dinner in Georgetown was at the tiny restaurant called Don Lobos Mexican Grill.  It was an unassuming place, but the chunky guacamole and chicken tacos were to die for.  The tacos, cradled by corn tortias were stuffed with sautéed chicken, queso fresco and crisp fresh lettuce and tomatoes.  According to my companions that night, the rest of the menu and the margueritas were fantastic also.  Mexican food can definitely cure even the most worn-out, walked-out, heat-stroked person.  I felt my energy coming back, but out-voted by my companions, we retired for a good-night’s sleep.

My second day in Georgetown was a journey from the sacred spaces inside the National Cathedral of Washington to the stark opposite, SHOPPING! 

From the heart of Georgetown you really wouldn’t want to walk to the National Cathedral.  It’s just too far, so hop in a taxi.  It’s currently only about ten dollars plus tip to get there and especially during the summer heat, it’s the easiest, fastest and coolest way to travel. 

You have a number of options for your tour of the cathedral.  You can either join a tour group at designated times, self tour with a map, or use an audio guide. I picked the latter.  After a brief explanation about the on/off features from the greeter at the desk, you listen to a brief instruction and introduction on the audio guide.  I was really glad I chose this option because it allowed me to move throughout the cathedral as I pleased and avoid the large groups.  Each stop was numbered clearly and the map that came with the audio guide showed exactly where each stop was.

As with most cathedrals, when you walk inside you immediately feel the vastness and this particular day, the sun lit the many stained glass windows like shining jewels and their reflected light showered rainbow prisms of color along the walls and sculptures. It was stunning.  My first inclination was to take pictures using my flash, but as I began snapping, a priest in a long black cassock ambled over and kindly told me that the pictures would turn out much better without the flash.  He was right. You can’t catch the beautiful colors in the light if you use a flash.   I send a prayer of thanks for that intervention!

One window that simply shouldn’t be missed is the “Space Window” located about half way down the nave.   The colorful spheres suggest planets floating in deep blue space.  The thin white line represents the flight path of the spacecraft Apollo II.  Most interesting of all, if you look at the small round piece of white glass at the center of the large red sphere, you can see it contains a sliver of MOON ROCK brought back from the first manned lunar landing by astronauts in 1973.

As I gazed at the vibrant multihued windows and listened to the audio guide explaining the significance of the symbolism in the art and the history behind the cathedral, I embarked upon my journey through this magnificent church.

Washington National Cathedral is the popular name for what is actually named The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul and it is an Episcopal Church.  It is the 2nd largest cathedral in the U.S. 2nd only to the Cathedral of St. John the Divine in New York.

The actual start of construction of the “great church for national purposes” did not start for more than one hundred years after it was first envisioned by Pierre L’Enfant, designer of the Federal City.  In 1795, land was set aside during the city design, but the National Portrait Gallery was built on that location instead.  It wasn’t until 1891 that plans were renewed for the cathedral and in 1893 a location was found on the commanding site of Mount St. Alban.  Construction finally began in 1909 and President Theodore Roosevelt laid the corner stone in 1912.

Just before you enter the side aisle of the Nave, you see an alcove with a large statue of George Washington.  That day it was washed in a rainbow of color from the nearby stained glass window.  The statue was created by sculptor Lee Lawrie and when he designed it, he wanted to portray Washington not as the soldier, but as the man, coming into church pausing a moment before going down the aisle to his pew.  The bay behind him displays symbolism representing his life and accomplishments.

When I continued along the Nave side aisle I found myself at what is called “Wilson Bay”, an alcove where the tomb of President Woodrow Wilson lies.  He is the only president buried in the cathedral.  His pale stone tomb has a sword sculpted on the top representing a crusader’s sword.  It symbolizes his crusade for world peace following WWI.  The thistles on the hilt represent his Scottish heritage.  As with the other president’s bays, it was filled with loads of artistic symbolism representing President Wilson’s life and accomplishments.

There are five tiny chapels on the nave level.  The tiny chapels of the “War Memorial Chapel” and the “Children’s Chapel” are quiet reflective cocoons tucked into the huge nave expanse. The War Memorial Chapel has come to be regarded as a special place for members of the Armed Forces because it recognizes the suffering of war and honors those who have dedicated their lives to their country.

At the entrance of the Children’s Chapel, a small bronze Christ child holds out his arms to welcome you into the children’s chapel. This chapel is set specifically aside for the use of children in the cathedral and light blue kneeling pillows are decorated with Sunday school bible figures. 

The other chapels are dedicated to St. John, St. Mary, and the Holy Spirit and their small altars are magnificent masterpieces of art and sculpture.  These peaceful chapels radiate the sensation of a sacred place and while I stood in silent contemplation I noticed that others visitors spoke only in reverent whispers.

The high altar in the semi circular area (the apse) at the far end of the cathedral beyond the choir stalls is referred to as the “Jerusalem Altar” because it is made from limestone from an ancient quarry outside Jerusalem. It is believed  the stone came from the same quarry used to build King Solomon’s temple. The Ten square stones in front of the altar represent the Ten Commandments and were brought from the Chapel of Moses on Mount Sinai. 

The wall sculptures or “Reredos”, behind the high altar which are carved of French Caen stone, are centered by the “Majestus” or “Christ in Majesty” medallion which is carved in the lighter colored Texas limestone.  The Majestus is surrounded by 110 saints, prophets, martyrs and angels all lined up in their tall slim niches representing the highest ideals of Christianity and the Angels praise of god.

I followed curving stone steps off the corner of the nave to the crypt beneath the Cathedral. The crypt holds four more chapels, three of which depict the life of Christ, and the burial vaults.  It is also the oldest entrance to the church.  While the cathedral was under construction, the first services were held in the Bethlehem Chapel.

The Bethlehem Chapel’s theme is of course, the Birth of Jesus, and it is a lovely romantic and almost feminine chapel.  Designed in the Neo-Gothic style the architect attempted to perfectly replicate the 14th century decorated Gothic style and his creation makes you feel as if you have been transported back to the 14th century with its delicate lacy tracery and tall graceful stretches curving to arched points above.  The stained glass windows in the ambulatory tell the story of the Nativity. 

The Chapel of Joseph of Arimathea is dedicated to the bible figure who gave his sepulcher as a tomb for the crucified Jesus.  The chapel is twelve steps below the level of the rest of the crypt to symbolize the descent into a tomb.  The chapel is built in the Romanesque Style and is in the shape of a Greek cross.  The focal point of the chapel is the painting above the altar which is the only mural in the cathedral.  The scene depicts the entombment of Jesus and glows softly in the artificial light of the chapel. 

In the rear of the chapel behind a wrought iron gate are the burial vaults.  It is the resting place of artists, musicians, and others honored by the cathedral.  This distinguished group includes famous supporter and activist for the deaf and blind, Helen Keller and her lifelong friend and teacher Anne Sullivan.

When it comes to sparkling beauty, the Resurrection Chapel’s Byzantine style mosaics seem to shimmer and glow as if they were truly the stained glass windows they pretend to be.  The chapel is built in the Norman style with heavy robust proportions, semi-circular arches and limited sculpture.  The half-dome ceiling mosaic above the altar portrays the Resurrection.  Golden rays of the sun radiate against a turquoise sky behind a risen Christ.  The side “window” mosaics portray the appearances of Christ after the Crucifixion and the tiles glitter with bright gemstone colors. 

After making my way back out of the crypt and toward the front of the cathedral, I noticed a small sign in front of the elevator that said “Observation Platform”.  I quickly decided to check it out and took the elevator to the 7th floor inside one of the west towers. The views from there extended all the way to the Washington Monument and Georgetown and provided an interesting up-close look at buttresses and the carvings on the church pinnacles.

Before leaving, I also stopped into the Museum which displayed the cathedral history and construction methods and also had an exhibit about the recent repairs undergone after the 2011 earthquake which caused several sculptures to fall from the outside and also caused cracks and damage to the interior of the cathedral.  Repairs are still under way, in fact if you look closely, there is netting spanning the entire nave and clerestory ceiling. 

On your way out be sure to turn back and look at the Creation Sculptures which are in the tympanums (the half moons over the doorways) of the west portals.  The center one, “Ex Nihilo” portrays the emergence of man out the void.  These sculptures were designed and executed by Frederick Hart and the gifted Italian master carvers Palumbo and Morigi.  The twisting bodies surge with energy as they climb out their stony nothingness.

A quick taxi ride back to Georgetown, and I was ready for my secular fun.  Shopping!  Georgetown has lots of high-end designer boutiques along M street and Wisconsin Avenue, so I wandered in and out of shops for several blocks indulging in mostly window shopping.  Fortunately, most of the shops were having their summer sales, so I was able to snap up a couple great bargains even with my not-so-high-end budget.

Dinner that night was at the highly recommended Filomena Ristorante, one of the premier Italian restaurants in D.C.  This restaurant is filled with old-country ambience of Abruzzi Italy with lace placemats, colorful plates, beamed ceilings and frescoed walls.  The menu is extensive and the hit of our table were the Calamari Fritti appetizer which was delicately fried and served with mild and spicy marinaras and  the Osso Bucco, a braised veal shank cooked to melting tenderness in rich veal stock, tomato sauce, red wine and diced vegetables, glazed in juices and served over creamy saffron-mushroom risotto.  I couldn’t resist trying the Hazelnut Daquoise, a hazelnut meringue cake filled with hazelnut mousse and dark chocolate truffle, rich, decadent, high calorie……. I guess more walking would have to be part of the plan for the next day.

Hot!  Humid! Summer temperatures in Georgetown can be oven-like and this June was one of the hottest on record.  It didn’t deter me from my mission though!  This trip was a freebee for me and I wasn’t going to miss out on any of what this oldest part of our capital had to offer. 

I had four days to hang out in Georgetown, District of Columbia while Jim worked on a project, so I had to decide, out of the many choices available, where I would spend my time. I decided immediately that I would stay in Georgetown and not take the metro or a taxi into downtown Washington, DC. 

Georgetown is one of the most historic areas of the capital and I think as a testament to its character, it remains charming even while undergoing extensive and annoying road and construction renovations on almost every street. It is also situated right on the beautiful Potomac River.  

Northwest of the federal city, Georgetown was founded in 1751, forty years before our beloved Washington, as the Port of Georgetown and remained a separate municipality until 1871 when the U.S. Congress consolidated government in the whole of the District of Columbia.  In 1895, the congress repealed Georgetown’s remaining municipal ordinances, renamed its streets and made it a neighborhood of the capital city. 

I wanted to try to get a sense of this history of Georgetown while I was there, so my first stop was the Old Stone House on M Street.  Walking inside the oldest standing house in DC, (built in 1765) is an experience you shouldn’t miss. It was like walking back in time.  I was there early in the morning, so I was alone in the tiny downstairs living area with its brick floor leading to a giant stone hearth almost big enough to walk inside, where iron cooking pots hung and twig brooms leaned.  It seemed as if the occupants had just left to tend their garden. 

The Pre-Revolutionary Colonial house was built out of local blue granite by a cabinet maker named Christopher Layman as both his residence and shop on a street that carried traffic from the Western frontier and paralleled the canal into Washington. I could just imagine lively trade activity with the street crowded by wagons full tobacco and canal barges full of goods from Maryland.

Unfortunately he died soon after completing his house.  The second owner, a woman, added the wing on the back of the tiny original structure in 1767 making it look the way you see it now.  The house was used throughout its history as a home or home/shop, becoming the location of local legend such as being George Washington’s Headquarters, which is probably why it survived so many years. None of the legends has ever been proven to be true.  In 1953, the U.S. Government bought the house preserving it for us today. 

When you walk up the narrow stairs to the second floor parlor and bedrooms, again there is the feeling that the family will be returning at any moment. It looked like the parlor served as music room, dining room and sitting room.  In one bedroom, the bed was stuffed with ticking and a white cotton nightgown lay waiting for its owner.  In the other, across from the bed, sat a large spinning wheel by the hearth where the lady of the house would spin her wool.  The children’s room on the third floor up under the eaves had a tiny fireplace in the corner and the bed, chest and chairs were all in miniature size for the absent children.

Still in the spell of Georgetown history, I walked back into the streets of the neighborhood where huge old trees shaded the lanes and allowed only a peek at the 18th and 19th century town homes along the way.  I could just imagine carriages driving along what probably would have been cobbled roads, stopping at the front steps of these decorative houses or rolling into the tiny courtyards hidden behind brick and iron fences.  On several front steps I saw small iron boot scrapers left from the days when mud (and worse) would have clung to the shoes of most people.

After walking about eight blocks, I finally arrived at the next stop in my historical journey, the Dumbarton House.   The Museum House sits on a piece of the 795 acres of land granted in 1703 to a Scottish immigrant named Ninian Beall for his services repelling “all incursions and disturbances of neighboring Indians”. He named the land the “Rock of Dumbarton” after a geological feature in his native Glasgow, Scotland.  Later, part of this huge tract of land became Georgetown.

The house wasn’t built until 1800, by a merchant named Samuel Jackson and is a beautiful example of Federal Architecture with its hipped roof, brick façade dressed stonework arches and lintels, fan lights over the doors and a symmetrical layout. 

Once inside, you can either self guide or join a group.  I joined a group in progress and was pleased to find the guide very knowledgeable and a really good story teller.  There is nothing worse than a boring guide!  The downstairs of the house is a perfect restoration of federal style rooms, filled with furniture from that period, and important details like the locked tea caddy (important for keeping out tea thieves!).  Only the lady of the house would carry the key to this expensive product. 

Also important is the sideboard cabinet, a completely new type of furniture invented during the Georgian period to show off the tiny liquor cabinet called a “cellarette” and of course the family silver and china.  I’m sure that Dolly Madison would have been perfectly comfortable while she took refuge in this house, August of 1814, as she fled the White House and the invading British soldiers.

Bracing myself for the heat back outside, I headed on to my next foray into the local history, Tudor Place a few blocks over.

Tudor Place is a beautiful example of Neo-classical architecture and is surrounded by gardens.  It was built in fits and starts over a period of about twenty years.  The wings were built first in 1795 by Francis Lowndes and were rented out as separate lodgings.  In 1805, he sold the property to Marta Parke Custis, the grand-daughter of Martha Washington (wife of President George Washington) and her husband Thomas Peter.  Unfortunately, the War of1812 delayed further construction until 1816 when the center and largest section of the house was completed.  The tour takes you through the family rooms and one of the formal parlors that have been beautifully restored.  Also, the kitchen and servants area is really interesting.  Unfortunately, the tour is too long and has no clear focus and the house interpretation is all over the place.  There are items in the rooms from the 18th century through modern times and many MANY people lived there.  It’s just too much to take in at one time and the one hour tour gets a little boring.  I have a background in Museum Education and have rarely seen a more confused interpretation in a museum house. Even so… the house is definitely worth visiting just for its historical importance and beauty and the gardens are lovely.

I have to admit, all that walking and touring wore me out and I was looking forward to the slightly down-hill walk back to my hotel, taking a cool shower and joining my husband for drinks and dinner in one of Georgetown’s many eclectic bars and restaurants. 

We finally decided upon a restaurant called Mie N Yu.  It has a romantic Asian, Middle Eastern ambiance decorated with flowing curtains, pillows and intricate screened lanterns.  Everywhere you turn there is something interesting to hold your gaze and the food turned out to be amazing.  The bartender was super friendly and told us about the many floor levels that made up the restaurant, chatting with us as we drank a cocktail at the bar before dinner.

We ordered a “house salad” which had a mixture of spring greens, chick peas, artichokes, cucumbers, carrots, golden raisins, Persian “Ranch” dressing and shallots. I know it sounds like a strange combination, but it was the best salad I have had in years. 

We also ordered the Afghan Lamb Chops which were grilled New Zealand lamb, golden quinoa “risotto” with goat cheese and baby spinach, artichokes, maple-pomegranate lamb reduction and crispy basil.  I still remember the taste of the juicy lamb and creamy risotto.  Again, I don’t think I have had such an amazing meal in a long time.  This place was fantastic.

Even full of delicious food, we had to make one more stop before heading back to the hotel.  The Sea Catch Restaurant & Raw Bar is a special place.  The bar and restaurant is located inside an old brick warehouse built in 1842 which originally stored goods for barge traffic along the bustling C&O Canal.  The outside balcony seating has a great view overlooking the canal, but is reserved for eating so you can’t sit there to have drinks only.  This should be no problem, because I was eyeing the raw bar while we were there and it looked tempting with its sections of shellfish piled on mountains of ice.  I made a mental note to come back to try the seafood with a view.